In 1926, Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex, revolutionized watchmaking by creating the world’s first truly waterproof case. Named “Oyster” (oyster), this innovative system transformed the wristwatch from a fragile accessory into a reliable instrument capable of withstanding the elements. This major technical advance laid the foundation for Rolex’s reputation for excellence.
The origins of an obsession with waterproofing
The German entrepreneur Hans Wilsdorf, based first in London and then in Geneva, pursued two major objectives: to create watches that were both precise and robust. From the early 1920s, he worked on prototypes of waterproof watches, aware that humidity and dust were the main enemies of horological precision. In 1922, he developed “The Submarine,” an initial model using a double-case system with a screwed bezel and crystal.
The acquisition of a decisive patent
On May 17, 1926, two Swiss watchmakers, Paul Perregaux and Georges Perret, filed a patent for a screw-down crown that integrated directly into the case. Wilsdorf immediately understood the potential of this innovation and acquired the patent in July 1926, simultaneously filing it in England, Germany, and the United States. This screw-down crown, functioning like a submarine hatch, perfectly complemented his system of a screwed case back and a waterproof bezel.
The birth of the Oyster system
The complete device, patented under the name “Oyster” in 1926, relied on three key elements: a screw-down case back, a screw-down bezel, and a screw-down winding crown. This hermetic construction effectively protected the movement against water and dust. The name “Oyster” referred to the mollusk capable of remaining submerged without water damaging its interior – a perfect metaphor for this innovation.
The spectacular validation by Mercedes Gleitze
To demonstrate the effectiveness of his invention, Wilsdorf launched a daring marketing operation. In 1927, he equipped Mercedes Gleitze, the first British woman to swim across the English Channel, with a Rolex Oyster watch. After more than ten hours in the cold water, the watch emerged perfectly functional. The next day, Wilsdorf bought a full page in the Daily Mail to announce “The greatest triumph in watchmaking,” definitively associating Rolex with sporting achievement and technical reliability.
The evolution to Perpetual
While the Oyster case solved the waterproofing problem, a challenge remained: the screw-down crown, a weak link in the system, had to be regularly unscrewed to wind the watch, which risked prematurely wearing out the gaskets. In 1931, Wilsdorf completed his device by introducing the “Perpetual” self-winding mechanism, thereby eliminating the need to frequently manipulate the crown and reinforcing the system’s waterproofing.
The lasting legacy of the Oyster
The Oyster case combined with the Perpetual movement gave birth to the Oyster Perpetual, which remains at the heart of almost all Rolex watches today. This 1926 innovation not only transformed Rolex into a leader in precision watchmaking but also redefined the standards of the entire industry. The wristwatch evolved from a delicate accessory to a robust and reliable instrument for everyday use.