Watches & Wonders is now the dominant annual showcase for fine watchmaking, bringing together the industry’s major houses in Geneva every spring. Understanding how the event reached its current form requires tracing a genealogy that spans over six decades, through changes in format, transfers of ownership, and a fundamental repositioning regarding the actual target audience.
From Basel to Geneva: Two Competing Traditions
For decades, Baselworld (founded in 1917) dominated the industry. As a B2B trade show, it brought together retailers, distributors, and the press in a primarily commercial setting. The general public played only a marginal role.
In 1991, prestigious brands linked to Richemont (Cartier, Piaget, etc.) created the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva. The objective was to distinguish themselves from Baselworld’s broader positioning and offer a more exclusive setting.
The SIHH: Exclusive, Then Open
Initially by invitation only, the SIHH welcomed the press and professionals. It gradually expanded, integrating more brands, including independents via the Carré des Horlogers. Houses such as IWC and Vacheron Constantin further strengthened its influence.
2020: The Birth of Watches & Wonders
The SIHH became Watches & Wonders Geneva, marking a strategic turning point: opening to the general public. The pandemic prevented a physical edition, which was replaced by a digital format that attracted millions of views and revealed massive interest from enthusiasts.
2020-2021: Transition and Physical Return
After a hybrid edition in 2021, the show returned in person in 2022 with integrated public days. It brought together 38 brands and approximately 35,000 visitors. Meanwhile, Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Tudor left Baselworld to join Geneva.
The End of Baselworld and the Dominance of Geneva
The withdrawal of the Swatch Group (2018), followed by Rolex and Patek Philippe (2020), precipitated the decline of Baselworld. The Watches & Wonders Geneva Foundation was created, consolidating Geneva as the sole center for major launches.
A Rapidly Growing Exhibition
The number of brands increased from 38 in 2022 to 54 in 2024, with 60 in 2025 and 66 announced for 2026. The return of Audemars Piguet illustrates the importance of the show in reaching new audiences, particularly young collectors.
A Paradigm Shift
The evolution from SIHH to Watches & Wonders reflects a shift: enthusiasts and collectors have become central. The show is no longer just a commercial tool, but a global showcase that sets the creative and strategic tone for the entire watch industry.